German Chamomile

Scatter seed on a firmed, weed-free bed in early spring and press it into the surface without covering it (UW-Madison Extension: 'The seeds need light to germinate, so surface sow and press into the soil'). Keep the surface damp until seedlings appear. Montana State's WARC notes that succession plantings may be made to spread the harvest out rather than taking one flush - sow a further patch once the previous one is up and growing away. Chamomile seed needs light to germinate, so any soil over the top simply stops it. Montana State's trials seeded in early spring because the seedlings tolerate a light frost, which gets the plants flowering before the worst summer heat.

If you started seed indoors, set the plants out while they are still young - Montana State's WARC sowed in the greenhouse on April 8 and transplanted to the field on May 15, about five weeks - at 8 inches apart in rows 18 inches apart. Grow them in individual cells or containers rather than an open flat so the roots come out intact. Start indoors roughly 6 to 8 weeks before your average last frost date and set out after that date. Larger chamomile plants do not transplant well, so they are either grown individually in containers or moved while small; the small ones establish without a check and catch up and pass the big ones.

Keep the bed evenly moist from sowing until the seedlings are a few inches tall and clearly growing away. After that, water only in real drought - established chamomile carries itself on far less. The seed sits on the surface and the seedling roots are shallow, so a single dry spell at establishment is what usually kills a chamomile stand outright.

Do not work fertilizer into a chamomile bed. Well-drained soil in full sun is the whole requirement. If you are following a heavily manured crop, expect tall floppy plants and plan to sow somewhere leaner next year. Chamomile thrives in poor soil and needs minimal fertilizer; pushing it with nitrogen buys leaf and stem, which is not the part you harvest.

Snip or rake off just the flower heads, no stem, once they are at or near full bloom - a practical field cue is that the white rays start folding back from the yellow center. Go over the planting every few days by hand; Montana State's WARC raked its stand and repeated every 10 days. Dry the heads promptly in a warm, well-ventilated place out of direct sun, spread thin enough that they never heat - flowers must be dried carefully to avoid discoloration or heating. Flower quality is best at or near full bloom and falls off as the head ages toward seed. Stripping the heads is also what keeps the plant flowering - UW-Madison Extension notes plants readily self-seed unless all flower heads are removed.

Every week or so, turn over the growing tips and look for clusters of aphids. Chamomile has few pest problems other than aphids, and light colonies on a vigorous stand rarely justify doing anything; knock heavy ones off with a jet of water or pinch out the worst tips. Aphids feed on the soft tips and flower stalks, and it is the only pest that reliably shows up on this crop - so a quick tip check is the whole scouting program.