Persimmon

Family Ebenaceae

Tree

Botanical illustration of Persimmon

Wait for a persimmon to turn fully soft and it repays you with spoon-sweet, honeyed flesh — one of autumn's great rewards, and one the impatient never meet, since only dead-ripe fruit loses its pucker. This entry covers both the Asian persimmon and the native American type.

Across the two types hardiness spans zones 4-10, so one persimmon or another suits almost any yard, in full sun or part shade. The fruit hangs on like ornaments after leaf drop, feeding whoever waits longest — pick your type, plant it, and learn patience deliciously.

Where to buy persimmon — 1 nursery compared

  • Full Sun to Part Shade
  • Excellent edible
Asian Persimmon — a print from the Plant Library collection

From the print shop

Growing persimmon? Hang it.

Our Plant Library collection carries persimmon — Diospyros kaki, print Nº 363, “Asian Persimmon.”

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Which persimmon do you have?

Hardiness differs across the 2 persimmons in this guide, so pick yours and this panel answers for that one.

Enter it once; every plant page remembers.

Asian Persimmon

Mature size
15-30 ft
Growth rate
Moderate
Chill requirement
100-200
Pollination
Usually self-fertile/parthenocarpic; pollination can add seeds and improve set

Persimmon · Common problems

Common persimmon problems

Pests, diseases and weather to keep an eye on.

Nothing common enough to list for persimmon. Watch it like anything else in the garden, and check the plants growing next to it.

Persimmon · Which one do you have?

The 2 types this guide covers

Where these differ, the key facts above give the span across all of them. Each type’s own figures, as the catalogue records them:

Asian Persimmon

Hardiness
7-10
Mature size
15-30 ft
Growth rate
Moderate
Chill requirement
100-200
Pollination
Usually self-fertile/parthenocarpic; pollination can add seeds and improve set

American Persimmon (Native)

Hardiness
4-9
Mature size
35-60 ft
Growth rate
Slow-Moderate
Pollination
Most need male + female; some cultivars self-fertile

Persimmon · Growing & propagation

Growing persimmon

Light, water, soil, propagation and the season’s jobs.
What it needsThe details
Light
Full Sun to Part Shade
Pruning
Late Winter

How to plant & propagate persimmon

Propagate
Grafted, or from cuttings/layering

Seed won't come true

Persimmon · Harvest & keeping

What you get from persimmon

How long before it bears, how much it gives, how you know it is ready, and how long it keeps once picked.
Botanical illustration of Persimmon
Years to first harvest
3 to 6 years
Typical yield
30–80 lbs
What you eat
Fruit
How to tell it is ready
Fully colored

Asian types firm-ripe or soft depending on cultivar

How long it keeps
weeks refrigerated

Persimmon · Seasonal care & spray guidance

The persimmon growing playbook

Field-tested instructions for every job persimmon asks of you, compiled from university extension guidance — in the order the season brings them. This guide covers more than one plant, and their programmes are not interchangeable — spray timings in particular are set by the species. Each instruction below names the one it was written for.

While it is dormant

winter, before growth starts

3 jobs
PruningIn winterAsian Persimmon

Winter pruning: open the tree, but keep the branch tips

Prune while the tree is dormant. Take out dead, diseased, and crossing limbs, branches bent to the ground, and spindly wood that would snap under a load of fruit. Open the canopy by removing a few whole old branches and heading the tallest ones, rather than shearing every branch back to the same length. Prune what remains lightly. Persimmon fruits on new wood and on one-year-old wood, and the buds nearest the branch tips are the most productive, so uniform heading cuts remove next season's crop and provoke a thicket of regrowth at every cut.

PruningIn February and MarchAmerican Persimmon (Native)

Dormant-prune lightly, and make every cut clean

While the tree is fully dormant in late winter, take out dead, broken, and crossing wood and train to a modified central leader, which also keeps the tree from getting too tall. Cut back to the branch collar with a clean, smooth cut and leave no stubs. This tree needs little pruning once it reaches bearing size if you set the form early, so resist the urge to cut more. Persimmon wilt spores are wind-borne and a wound is what lets them in — the Forest Service tells you to cover bruises on healthy trees to keep spores out, so every cut is a door. Cutting while the tree is dormant means fewer open wounds standing through the season when the fungus is active.

SprayingIn winterAsian Persimmon

Dormant oil for scale, just before bud swell

If scale showed up last season, spray horticultural dormant oil over the trunk, scaffolds, and twigs in late winter, shortly before the buds swell. Cover the bark thoroughly; the oil only works where it lands. Scale overwinters on the bark as immobile, armored insects, and the oil kills by smothering them, which is why it must go on before growth starts and while the insects are still exposed and stationary.

As growth begins

early spring

2 jobs
FeedingIn springAsian Persimmon

Feed lightly in early spring, and resist the urge to do more

In late winter or very early spring, apply about three-quarters of a pound (roughly 1.5 cups) of 13-13-13 per inch of trunk diameter measured at the soil line, spread under the canopy. Judge whether the tree needs it at all first: if the leaves were not dark green last year and the tree put on less than 10 to 12 inches of shoot growth, it needs feeding. If it is dark green and grew more than that, skip it. Persimmon is a light feeder, and excess nitrogen pushes leafy growth at the expense of fruit and triggers premature fruit drop, so overfeeding costs you the crop you were trying to grow.

FeedingIn springAmerican Persimmon (Native)

Feed lightly in spring, if at all

If growth is weak, broadcast a balanced 10-10-10 evenly on the ground beneath the canopy at about a half to one pound per year of the tree's age, capping out around eight to ten pounds on an old tree. Skip the spiked fertilizer stakes. Give a newly planted tree nothing until it has leafed out and is growing. A persimmon pushed too hard drops its fruit, so this is a tree where restraint outyields generosity. Most trees in decent soil, especially ones surrounded by fed lawn, need nothing at all.

Just after bloom

as the fruit sets

1 job
ThinningAt petal fallAsian Persimmon

Thin to 6 inches within a month of bloom in a heavy year

In a year when the tree sets heavily, thin the young fruit to about 6 inches apart, breaking up any clusters. Do it within a month after bloom, while the fruit is still small. A heavy set makes small, clustered fruit, and it exhausts the tree into alternate bearing, where this year's glut buys next year's blank. Thinning early, while the fruit is still cheap for the tree to drop, is what resets that cycle.

Through summer

the growing season

4 jobs
PruningIn summerAmerican Persimmon (Native)

Cut root suckers before they become a thicket

Native persimmon throws suckers from its roots, sometimes well out from the trunk. Cut them off at ground level as they appear through the growing season, while they are still soft and small. This tree sprouts vigorously from roots and the stump, and left alone a mature tree turns its own dripline into a thicket that competes with the tree and with everything planted under it.

What to watch forThrough summerAsian Persimmon

Check for scale and mealybug on the sticky evidence

Through the growing season, look over twigs and leaf undersides for scale bumps and cottony mealybugs. The tell is honeydew: sticky leaves and trails of ants running the trunk. Banding material and an insect barrier on the trunk help keep ants from farming them. Note what you find so you know whether a dormant oil spray is warranted next winter. Persimmon has few serious pests, so scouting is mostly about catching the two that do turn up, and because scale is far easier to kill with dormant oil in winter than with anything sprayed in season.

What to watch forIn summerAmerican Persimmon (Native)

Watch for persimmon wilt, top down

Walk the tree and look for leaves wilting and dropping while the branches die back from the top down. Cut into a suspect branch and look for dark streaking in the wood. There is no cure, so remove and burn a confirmed infected tree rather than leaving it standing as a spore source. Cephalosporium diospyri plugs the water-conducting wood, and an infected tree lives only one or two years after wilting starts. It is the one disease with real potential to kill a native persimmon.

What to watch forIn summerAmerican Persimmon (Native)

Clip out fall webworm nests on young trees

Look for silk webs enclosing the leaves at branch ends. Where you can reach them, prune the webbed tips out and drown or bury them. If webs are too many to prune on a small tree, spray Bacillus thuringiensis while the caterpillars are still small, wetting the foliage next to the web rather than the web itself. Webworms colonize branch ends and can genuinely set back a small young tree. On a big established persimmon the feeding lands so close to natural leaf drop that it does not hurt the tree, and the webs are mostly an eyesore.

Harvest time

as it ripens, and picking

2 jobs
HarvestingAt harvestAsian Persimmon

Harvest on color, not on frost, and clip the stem

Pick by color, not by the calendar. Harvest astringent types like Hachiya and Tanenashi once the color has fully developed but while the fruit is still hard, then ripen them soft indoors. Non-astringent types like Fuyu and Jiro are ready to eat firm, once they color up. Cut the fruit from the tree with shears, taking the calyx and a small portion of stem with it, rather than pulling the fruit off. Waiting for frost is folk advice that backfires: frost will ruin immature fruit on the tree, and persimmons lose astringency as they ripen rather than because of a freeze. Pulling fruit tears it loose at the calyx and opens the wound that rots it in storage.

HarvestingAt harvestAmerican Persimmon (Native)

Pick only when it is jelly-soft, not when the calendar says so

Test by feel, not by date. Take fruit only when it has gone deep orange and squishy-soft, so soft it feels overripe and pulls free with no resistance. The tree ripens unevenly, so pick it over every few days for weeks rather than stripping it once. The fruit is loaded with soluble tannins until it is thoroughly ripe, and it is softening, not frost, that finally binds those tannins up. Ripe fruit often arrives around your first frost, which is how the frost story got started, but a hard persimmon is astringent in any weather.

After harvest

autumn, and putting it to bed

2 jobs
What to watch forIn autumnAmerican Persimmon (Native)

Gather the girdled twigs off the ground

Once twigs the thickness of a pencil start dropping with a neat, chewed-through cut at one end, rake them up and destroy them by burning, burying, or bagging. Get the ones still hung up in the canopy too. Do this through fall and winter and finish before spring. The female twig girdler girdles the twig on purpose and lays her egg in the part beyond the cut, because her larva cannot develop in healthy sapwood. The grub overwinters in that fallen twig, so hauling the twigs away is what actually breaks the cycle.

HarvestingAfter harvestAsian Persimmon

Pull the astringency out of hard-picked fruit

Astringent persimmons picked hard need to soften before they are edible. Left on the counter they will ripen on their own. To hurry it, bury the fruit in uncooked dry rice for 3 to 5 days, or freeze it for 24 hours and then thaw. The pucker is soluble tannin, and it does not wash out or cook out. It only becomes insoluble as the fruit softens, which is why an astringent persimmon eaten firm is inedible and the same fruit eaten soft is not.

Persimmon · Calculators & field guides

A little help in the garden.

Calculators for the figures. Field guides for the hands-on work.

Persimmon · Yearly calendar

The persimmon year, month by month

What persimmon asks for, month by month.

Jan

No calendar activity is listed for this month.

MonthJanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Bloom
Prune
Harvest

BloomMay

PruneFebruary to March

HarvestOctober to November

What each band means

  • Bloom — flowers open — pollinators working, frost on blossoms is the danger.
  • Prune — shape it now — cuts heal cleanly and structure is visible.
  • Harvest — picking time — check ripeness every few days.

These are the species' typical months — expect them a few weeks earlier in warm zones and later in cold ones. Watch the plant, not just the calendar.

Persimmon · Ecology & uses

Ecology & uses

What it does for the garden, and what it is grown for.
Botanical illustration of Persimmon

Persimmon in the garden system

Deer
Browsed

Protect young plants

What persimmon is grown for

✓ Commonly eatenSafe when ripe; unripe astringent fruit is unpleasant · Safe RIPE; unripe = mouth-puckering astringent (never eat firm)

Edible value
4/5

Edibility, identification, and traditional-use notes here are general reference — not medical or veterinary advice, and not a claim that any plant treats or prevents anything. Medicinal ratings record how strongly a plant features in herbal tradition, nothing more. Never eat or dose a plant you have not positively identified. More on how to use this library.

Persimmon · Varieties & cultivars

Best persimmon varieties & cultivars

There are far more than these — the ones below are the named varieties of persimmon people actually plant.

Named varieties of persimmon differ in winter-chill needs, ripening time, hardiness, and whether they set fruit on their own — pick one that fits your climate.

20 varieties

Fuyu

Also known as Fuyugaki; note Jiro is often sold under the Fuyu name

Self-fertile

Ripens
Oct-Nov
Zones
7-10
Disease
good (few serious pests or diseases)
Size
standard 15-20 ft, easily kept smaller with pruning

sweet, mild; eaten firm and crisp like an apple — The classic non-astringent (PCNA) persimmon eaten while still hard. Self-fruitful and sets seedless fruit without a pollinizer; the best all-around choice for most home growers.

Where to buy ‘Fuyu’verified

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Sources & plant identity

Know what you’re growing.
See where the knowledge comes from.

Botanical illustration of Persimmon

Persimmon

The plant, at a glance.

Plant family
Ebenaceae
Growth habit
Tree · Perennial
Invasive risk
Low
Every garden is different.

Hardiness, size and timing vary with your cultivar, soil and climate.

Rooted in research.

University extension research, brought together with hands-on growing experience at Story Thyme Farms.

Explore Persimmon’s sources22 reference links
for Persimmon

Questions

Persimmon questions, answered straight.

Is persimmon safe for kids and pets?

Persimmon is commonly eaten and isn't considered toxic, but "commonly eaten" isn't a guarantee for any particular person or animal — allergies, quantity, and which part you eat all matter. One caveat on this one: Safe when ripe; unripe astringent fruit is unpleasant · Safe RIPE; unripe = mouth-puckering astringent (never eat firm. Never eat a plant you haven't positively identified, and check with a vet before letting pets or livestock graze anything new.

How do you propagate persimmon?

Grafted, or from cuttings/layering (seed won't come true).

Elsewhere

Where persimmon sits in the library.